Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasah
Famous for the two simurgh birds on its portal — an image that should not, by strict tradition, be there at all.
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Script
On the eastern side of Lyabi-Hauz stands the Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasah, one of the best-known monuments of early seventeenth-century Bukhara. It was built during the reign of Imam Quli Khan and is closely associated with the official Nadir Divan-Begi. Its story is especially interesting because it was originally planned not as a madrasah, but as a caravanserai.
Caravanserais were essential on the Silk Road. Merchants could sleep there, store their goods, rest, and prepare for the next stage of their journey. According to the traditional account, at the building’s inauguration Imam Quli Khan called it a madrasah. Because the ruler’s word carried authority, the building was adapted into an educational institution. Traces of the original caravanserai plan remained.
Look at the portal. Colorful tiles, corner towers, and the monumental entrance make the building immediately recognizable. Its most famous decoration shows a sun-like human face flanked by mythical, bird-like creatures. These images differ from the purely geometric patterns often associated with Islamic architecture and give the façade a distinctive character.
After its conversion into a madrasah, students lived and studied here. One building therefore moved from the world of merchants and caravans into the world of education. It shows how trade, scholarship, government, and art were interconnected in Bukhara.
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